boredboredbored

every time i pass the fortezza di basso on the bus, i am so grateful not to have a car. oh, the freedom, the joy, the lack of responsibility! the fortezza is in bad shape, and it's been that way ever since i got here in september two years ago, and probably a lot longer than that. florence traffic is a mess, and no intersection (i wonder if you can really call it that?) sums that up more succinctly and powerfully than the mess that is the old fortress.

i love not driving. i love not having to pay for gas or parking or insurance. i love not feeling guilty about the fact that most of the time i spend in my car, i spend there alone, polluting the universe. i love not being eligible for parking tickets, speeding tickets, or evil tickets from kensington police people who hit on you afterward and then screw you over for the next two years by making your life a paper trail of hell, complete with imbeciles at the richmond court house whose main purpose in life seems to be to make yours miserable. not that i am speaking from experience, or anything.

so, it is with all of this in mind, plus my naively optimistic view of AC transit along with my anticipation of getting back on a bike (and hopefully losing some of the three or four hundred pounds i've gained since i got to italy), that i say:

i am going to try my damnedest (huh?) to make it without a car in berk.

oh, yeah, my brother also sold my car (which i LENT him) for less than the price of its stereo and kept the money. this had a small impact of my decision, too.

nothing

today, S and i have done a large amount of nothing, and spent an insane amount of money. we were so hungry when we got to the rosticceria that we ordered way more food than we had money to pay for, and promised to bring the balance tomorrow. it was ridiculous.

i bought this lovely book that i have been eyeing for about 6 months, and a hat like this one that i spotted in march, but couldn't afford. the one i got today is orange (surprise!) and i bargained the guy down to 10 euros. i also had my little treat of melon, lemon and strawberry gelato (these days i favor carozza, down by the ponte vecchio. it's the same gelateria that's on the cover of emily wise miller's book.) and finally got some mezzalune, one for myself and one for the restaurant. i spent a few days going to every single casalinga in florence (can you tell i am dying of boredom?), deciding on which one to get. i ended up getting one with walnut, not olive wood, handles and a forged blade. yesterday i did find a lovely handmade olive wood pepper grinder, though. i am totally trying to catch up on all of the shopping i've restrained myself from over the past 9 months.

i feel like i am getting dumber, so i think i am going to try to get some new reading material tomorrow. doing nothing definitely has its advantages, but it gets old quick.

some of the things i promised before

well, iran had a lot to offer besides the sour little green plums, though it may not seem like it right if you look at what i wrote while i was there.

the day after i got there, my aunt took me to the friday bazaar, which was basically just a four story flea market held inside a huge parking structure. there was a TON of junk there, but also lots of great stuff that i really regret not buying. i was kinda hoping to go back, but it just didn't work out. i did but an amazing antique silver headdress--the kind with many coins and chains and agate and tourquoise all strung together somehow and then tied to a bride's head in the old days--for about 5 bucks. i am going to try to figure out how to turn it into a belt when i get home. i also found some pre-revolution silver coins and did my fair share of staring at the youth of iran. all of the people my age were so COOL; i couldn't believe it! i could have been in san francisco or the west village, what with all of the coolness in the air. it was nuts. lots of dark jeans, converse sneakers (but in a cool way) and retroness.

i also got a lovely kurdish outfit that was the most beautiful shade of tourquoise. but when we got home and i tried to pull it over my shoulders, it didn't even come close to fitting. i have such broad shoulders, nothing fits me right. my plan was to get clothes made when i went to visit my grandma, but that didn't happen. instead, we asked a friend who was going to kermanshah to get me some clothes tailored, and the next person in my family who comes to california will bring them for me. we'll see what happens.

as far as social changes go, i think a lot of the liberalness (is that a word?) derives from the kids who watch satellite tv and play around on the internet all day long. there is so much pent up sexuality, and so much can be relayed with only a glance, that in some ways, i feel like conservative muslim countries end up being so much more (i am having one of those "what is the word i am looking for?" moments.) sensual (not the word i was looking for) than their outwardly soxual, "free" western counterparts. here, when a man bumps into me on the street, it means nothing. but there, it carries so much more weight and meaning. if i were the ruler of one of these countries, i would be so frustrated that all of my efforts are having the exact opposite effect than that which i seek. foiled every time.

you can't keep the west out. you can't tell people that the west is evil. you can't do that crap, because it just makes them want it more. like when i was in 6th grade and my persian school principal told all of the girls that we might be able to wear makeup and nail polish to our american schools, on the weekdays, but on friday night we had to remove our nail polish and forget about the maeup come saturday. being a total tomboy, none of that stuff interested me anyhow, but once it became illegal (i am having a problem finding the right word for anything right now), i wanted to paint my nails each weekend just to be defiant at iranian school (also, i didn't like her or her tone much).

well, now it's just like all of iran, and all of these other places, wants to put on its nail polish (literally and figuratively). that's my astute sociopolitical analysis for the day.

what i've eaten today

a cappuccino

another bollito sandwich

2 bowls of macedonia

1 peach gelatin

many tastes of the large and in charge amount (for 300 people) of pappa i made with bv. yay for pappa and basil!

a handful of tortilla chips

and hopefully soon, i will have some fruity gelati

titles and bits of poems i start in my head on the bus and never finish

a certain sadness comes
with leaving

would i be the same
if she were here

you say i saved your life

the zen of spider solitaire

and all i can think
about is
target

sliding down the sunburnt hillside
jumping over the
walls topped by shards of glass
like my brother's gel-spiked hair

just to reach those
perfect verdini,
little green figs
dripping with sweetness

tear them open to see the rubies
glistening inside
before you pop
them into
your mouth

this happens every time

i really liked azar nafisi's reading lolita in tehran, and so when i went to iran and told my family all about the book (because i was sure that it is banned there), they whipped out the ol' you're-related-to-her spiel. it seems that everyone in iran is related to everyone else, if not by blood, then through "aunts" and "uncles," so i was skeptical. but it turns out i actually am related to her. heh.

oh, so tuscan

yesterday, i went out to chianti to visit my butcher friend, where he was hosting an afternoon snack for 300 motorcyclists who were on a tour through the valley. something like that seems to happen every time i go out there. i also got to meet the people who run neal's yard dairy, and i lavished praise upon them for how wonderful their shop is, and how much i love the people who work there. for there is another nice cheese shop, which shall remain unnamed, but is located on the 1500 block of shattuck ave., and is notorious for its crabby employees (or coop members, if you will). they laughed when i said that and said that it was probably just some hippie holdover from the 60s. but weren't hippies nice?

(**edited to add: well, i'll be! i just checked out the daily candy archives to catch up on what i missed while i was gone, and they put dario on their list of stuff to see in italy. ha!)

today, instead, i didn't do much at all. i had a nice bollito sandwich for lunch, and some gelato (melon, strawberry, and lemon). i went to santa maria novella and got some almond soaps and lovely lotion; i walked regrettably close to the ponte vecchio and piazza della signoria (regrettable because it's june and impossible to move through florence); i picked up the photo album i was having hand made by this wonderful place; and S had made me promise to see Troy with her before i knew what it was about. all of those years studying ancient greek and latin caused me to spend most of the movie cringing at its complete and utter inaccuracy, but i have to say, it was nice to look at all of those beautiful people for 2 hours.

i wish i were more interesting, but alas, life here isn's so much about being interesting as it is about just plain being.

how shirin ebadi found out she got the nobel peace prize

after giving a talk in paris, she was getting ready to go to the hotel and pack up to go to the airport, and her friends told her not to go back to her hotel, but come with them to their house for dinner, and then they'd get her to the airport in time for her 1am flight.

they had dinner, and were sitting around talking when the phone rang. the host answered the phone and was surprised when it was for ms. ebadi, because no one knew that she was there. he told her it was for her, and she figured that it was one of her friends who loved to play practical jokes on her.

the person on the other line said that he couldn't identify himself, but he implored her to stay put and said that he needed to call her back in a few hours. she was incredulous, convinced that this was a practical joke, and about to hang up when the man on the line asked her if she would be more apt to listen to the request if it came from the lips of a woman who she knew and respected (whose name i don't know, let's just call her mrs. johnson). a little surprised, ms. ebadi said yes, and the man handed the phone to mrs. johnson, who asked her to please just stay where she was. ms. ebadi was curious as to how they found out where she was at that moment, when nearly no one in the world could know, but mrs. johnson had nothing to say about that. she just asked ms. ebadi to stay put; ms. ebadi tried to explain that she needed to leave for the airport to catch her flight in less than an hour, but mrs. johnson would have none of it.

finally, when she realized that unless she said something more to convince ms. ebadi to stay, she wasn't going to get what she was asking for, she told her. she said that ms. ebadi was on a VERY short list for the nobel peace prize, and that it was being decided at just that moment. the committee would have a decision within a few hours, and they needed her to be reachable when it was decided. ms. ebadi was flabbergasted, honored, flattered, and yet, the first thing she asked was who the other person on the list was.

it was the pope.

with that, ms. ebadi just about hung up the phone and left for the airport, saying that there was no way that she'd win over the pope, just when a raucous started on mrs. johnson's end of the line. it sounded like a bunch of people had just entered the room, and ms. ebadi could hear her name being whispered and said in the background. just then, mrs. johnson told her that she had been chosen, and now would she please stay where she was?

sono proprio enamorata d'italia

oh, i love italy.

the train ride from the airport was the perfect welcome back to the old country--fennel flowers were in bloom all along the tracks, and the sun was shining in all of its lazian glory. when i got to termini, i ate a sandwich with tomatoes and mozzarella, and BASIL! and then i got the ticket for the first train back to firenze, and in true italian fashion it was an hour late and ended up being the slowest eurostar train i've ever been on. oh, but it doesn't matter.

i went to mercato centrale today, and bought pecorino and peas, canteloupes and peaches and orata and marvelled at the glory of spring produce. oh, vegetables. oh, fruit. oh, italy. how i love you so.

at work, i had a bowl of pasta al ragu'. and i stuffed the fish with parsley and lemon and fried it and we had a nice salad for dinner. i love this. how will i leave it?

yesterday, i had some kiwi granita and some pugi schiacciata. dusk doesn't come till 9pm. life is good.

i have lots to say, but no connection to say it with

stories for when i get back to fast internet:

my uncle and shirin ebadi; the belt i am going to make out of the silver headdress i found; the king of bargaining; finally, a champion packer; i think the book will actually make it; i think i found a roommate and a temporary place to stay; why i think iran is actually a heck of a lot more modern and organized, and liberal, than it seems; my experience at tava'zo; and a million other things that i can't think of right now.

i do love the little green plums. so sour, so good.

i'm not sure i did the right thing

i just changed it all with the click of a mouse. oh well, when i get back to high speed internetville, i'll put up links and change some things around. but i must say, this whole new blogger is very nice...

today we went to my grandparents' land, a few miles away, and clipped sour orange blossoms to dry and take home for my mom. standing there in the trees, i got that feeling i sometimes get here, of "this is home," and it was all alright for a moment. i also went through my grandma's musty closets and found some things from the 60s and 70s that were awful! but they made for great pictures. what i really wanted was the old kurdish outfits, but they were in a closet whose key was nowhere to be found. we're going to see if we can get some new ones made just for me, since i don't know if we'll ever find that key.

it's good i was able to feel at home there, because just the other day i was thinking how jiggly and uncomfortable i feel that i don't really fit in anywhere. the only place where i can walk down the street without people unashamedly staring at me is berkeley. am i really that strange looking? at first i thought i was being paranoid, but lately people who walk with me have been making remarks about it, so i feel like i am not making it up. everywhere else, i look different. here, at least my face looks like everyone else's, but people know, from my clothes, my speech, maybe the way i walk, that i am not from here, that i am farhangi. and i get crap for it, all of the time. people try to rip me off, to touch me, to bother me. they say stuff to me, thinking i don't understand, they chase me and hoot and glare, and i hate it.

my aunt asked me if i wanted to take a walk with her the other afternoon, since we are inside most of the day, and i asked her in which direction she wanted to go. she pointed uphill, behind the house, toward the forest, and i grimaced and said that i had already had a bad experience on that road once before. she had no clue what i was talking about, so i told her that, 4 years ago, when i was here for nearly a month, with just my grandparents, the looming due date for my play and shakespeare thesis, and computer solitaire to help pass the time, i couldn't take being inside any more one day and insisted to my grandmother that i was going to take a hike. she didn't try to discourage me, but she did tell me to be careful. so i put on my fancy italian hiking boots, and my californian sunglasses, and of course covered my hair with a scarf and my body with a rupush, and set out. i told her i'd be back in an hour.

i trudged up the hill, trying to ignore the women and men looking at me and saying stuff, and eventually i hit the main beltway that leads to tehran, which i'd have to follow for a little bit before i could reach the trail to the forest. as i walked, i felt like evry single passing truck and car honked at me, but i wasn't really near the side of the road or anything. i knew, inside, that they could tell that i was khareji and that they were heckling me, but i didn't want to admit it. i just kept trying to ignore it. and then, i stopped to tie my shoelace that had come undone, and a pickup truck full of dirty men drove by slowly, all of them yelling at me and telling me to come hop onto their truck and ride off into the sunset with me. ugh, it was so disgusting. i tried to walk faster and look away, but they just slowed down to trail me. so i crossed the road to try to get away from them, and while i was patting myself on the back for how smart i was, they sped off and made a uturn and came back to bother me some more. when some of them got out of the truck and started to come toward me, i started to yell insults. i hadn't wanted to speak, because i knew that that would really give me away, but i felt like it was time to say something. so i told the dirty fecks to get away, and i started to run.

i ran, and they followed. i ran, i was so scared. i ran and ran and ran. i hoped that someone driving by--it was a busy road--would stop and help or fend them off or honk and tell them to leave me alone, but people only laughed. so i ran and ran to get back home, and they kept following me. i saw a woman in a chador ahead, walking her daughter home from school, and i asked her if i could please walk with her. she had seen that these dirty fecks were heckling and following me, and she cursed at them, but then she told me that i couldn't walk with her. WHAT?!!!

she turned to her daughter and said, "see, don't you ever be stupid like this retarded foreigner who came here and thought she could do what she wanted. she is so dumb, don't ever be like this." she turned to me and cursed me out, the guys still following us, and i wouldn't leave her, so i walked right behind her, and she swore at those men until they left.

when we got back to my house, i just went upstairs and didn't say a word to my grandmother, who i knew would say "i told you so." she didn't mention that only about 25 minutes had passed. and i didn't think about taking a walk ever again.

so when i told my aunt this story, she said that the peeps bother her too, but never like that. and if we are together, it won't be bad. so we went, down the same road. and people were honking and hooting and hollering. i looked at her and said, "see?" so we went back and took a walk through town, where at least i know that the people are going to stare, and i can stare back at them, and act the part of the foreigner by taking pictures. i mean, if they are going to stare, i might as well give them something to look at, right?

maybe it's because i'm tall, maybe it's because i'm soooooooo beautiful (ha!), maybe they just know something i don't.

tehran, 1994

when we got off the plane, it was dark, and we were tired. the air on the tarmac was thick full of diesel, something i'd come to always associate with iran. i was 14 and they were 10 and we were delirious--our whole lives we'd just listened to everyone talking about this place and these people we were about to meet. our brilliant cousin, our funny uncles, our grandparents' land in the north, the delicious water of the city, the fish, the meat, the vegetables.

and now, we--we who'd never traveled farther than nevada--we suddenly here.

it was unbelievable to our little minds, unexposed to anything like this. travel? passports? visas? airline tickets? huh?

after the whirlwind of activity at the airport--our uncle who'd somehow met us far inside the terminal, and blown us through customs and paperwork; the trip home in the middle of the night through this city i'd never even had the strength to dream of; the cousins, aunts, uncles, grandparents, and everyone else who up until now was no more than paper or ink to us. everyone was there, and we couldn't handle it. we made it home, to my uncle's house, my uncle, who i strained to remember from a decade before in california, where he would babysit my newborn brothers so my mom could go help my dad at work, or just sleep. we made it home and sat down in the kitchen at the card table set out for us, across from S, the cousin we knew only through the bragging of our relatives. a week older than my brothers, he seemed as different as the imagination would allow, and we sat down across from him, hungry from not having eaten for a day and a half, nothing substantial, anyhow. and we built sandwiches for ourselves there, at two in the morning, from all of the familiar foods, cotlet and olivieh.

one of us, probably me, just started to giggle. we kept staring at him. we didn't know what to say--we spoke farsi well, well enough to communicate, but what do you say after 14 years? what do you say for the first time? he spoke the same language of laughter, though, and it was enough. we sat there for what seemed another eternity, another 14 years, and we laughed, hard. there were tears, and my cheeks began to hurt from chewing and laughing at the same time. it was enough, though.

we were the same. somehow, it was all familiar.