there is so much going on that i don't know where to start. yikes!

let's begin with dharma, something that's been on my mind for several months now. as my teacher abby tucker defines it,

Our dharma (cosmic responsibility) is to be our authentic selves. If we step into, cultivate, and expand into our authenticity, then we will meet our life's true purpose. So, dharma isn't about what you are supposed to DO, it's about being who you already are. It is adharmic to attempt or desire to be anyone else or anything else than your most authentic self.


i've spent my entire life trying to figure out what i'm supposed to be doing with myself, but really it's only been in the last year, since eccolo closed, that i've started to realize that it doesn't matter what i actually do as long as i do it fully, authentically, and honestly as my self.

if i am happy, i can make others happy. does it matter if my business card has no title, or that my job has no label, or that i can't be put into a box? i'm learning it doesn't.

and in realizing that, i've been able to distill the essence of my work into a little golden nugget: to bring people together in community around food, to take care of them and love them, to make them feel loved and want to go back out into the world and express that love to others in whatever way moves them most. this is my work, this is my dharma. and i may find more than one way to express it. knowing me, i probably will. but this is who i am, my truest self.


next:

oh, there's been so much hullaballoo over the piece in last sunday's nyt mag about john friend and anusara yoga. i've resisted mentioning john on this blog for a lot of reasons (including the fact that my tendency toward hyperbole and gratuitous overuse of exclamation points wouldn't do much to dispel the cultish reputation of anusara and its practitioners attitudes' toward john), but the week i spent with him in february changed my life. i can point to it as one of the most singularly transformative experiences i've had, and i call daily on the lessons i learned that week to guide me through both physical and emotional experiences of my everyday life.

i have been graced with the good fortune of having many brilliant teachers throughout my life, and i've also had the opportunity to work closely with quite a few people who are among the best in the world at what they do; i am able to identify greatness with ease.

and john friend is perhaps the most dynamic, skillful, and sensitive teacher i have ever known. of course he's not perfect--no one is--but in less than a week's time, i knew that he was someone i wanted to learn as much as possible from, and find a way to work with.

i've definitely wondered from time to time if anusara is too culty or shiny-happy for me to deal with, but once i really began to understand the guiding principles and philosophy of this yoga, i realized that i've known it all all along, deep within myself--i just never had the words or actions, or such elegant words or actions, to express it so well. and this sort of understanding takes time; from the outside, it's so easy to look at anusara as culty, shallow or preachy. but deepen your gaze, and you'll see its indisputable beauty.

and as for the strange insinuation that running a successful business and having a meaningful, spiritual organization must be mutually exclusive, or the idea that john is a money-hungry CEO, well, i definitely have my own first-hand experience that lies in conflict with that claim: the dude offered to support my work with $5k without having ever even met or heard of me, simply because i asked. no one else in my life has ever done such a thing, not even any of the fabulously successful people i work with/for on a regular basis (not that there is anything wrong with that; just trying to paint a picture for you all here).

i feel i have a unique perspective from which to view this situation, as both a devoted student of anusara and a writer with one foot firmly in the world of journalism (i'm lucky to know several nyt and nyt mag writers and editors well). in my opinion, the nyt is peerless in this country and possibly the world, in the quality of its reporting, but i suppose that again, no one is perfect. i'm all for telling stories from all sides, but i also want to read the truth (or at least something that somewhat resembles the truth), and to know that the reporters are sensitive enough to understand the intricacies of a situation.

it's always easier to portray a person as a caricature of him or herself than it is to dig deeper and get a sense for why someone is a certain way. if anusara has taught me anything, it's to try to serve the highest with my every action, and guess what, it's not easy to do that! when i met john in february, it took me a couple of days to understand why he was selling anusara so hard to us. i sort of felt like he sounded like a used car salesman when we had already all bought cars from him--hadn't we all paid the money to come to the immersion? hadn't we all reorganized our lives, some of us flying from halfway across the country or world to be there? wasn't that proof enough that we were already committed? i was sort of turned off and unsure what to think. but then, i let go of that and had some of the deepest experiences in my body and mind that i'd ever had. i had amazing physical and emotional shifts that demonstrated to me what this guy was really about. and as i went on to meet people who were there who'd barely ever taken an anusara class, i realized that john was talking to them. my friends and i are so very lucky to have some of the most fantastic teachers out there; i'd assumed everyone is so fortunate. but, as for food, the bay area is one of the hearts of this yoga community, and so folks from other places aren't graced with such a wealth of incredible instructors. i'm watched over like a hawk in every class; i have the principles, loops, anatomical and philosophical foundations of anusara drilled into me on a daily basis. when on the fourth nine-hour day with john i crossed paths with someone who still had no idea what the second basic principle was, after john had been talking about the principles for nearly twenty-five hours straight, i finally understood what the deal with the used-car salesman act was. duh--some people really need that! do you see what i mean by digging deeper?

john responded yesterday quite beautifully to the piece on his blog, but it's this eloquent, even-handed interview with waylon lewis that really demonstrates why i consider him one of my greatest teachers.

that's enough about that.

more soon...and i promise it won't be about john.

edited to add: this response by ethan nichtern on huffpo might be the best one i've seen yet.

tartine afterhours.

a monthly series of family-style dinners at tartine bakery
complete with music, wine & cameraderie

the details:

who: the fab folks at tartine (and me)
what: a (mostly vegetarian) three-course family-style fixed menu
where: tartine bakery (600 guerrero st. sf, ca)
when: wednesday, july 28th at 8pm
why: to highlight the joy of good food and good company
how much: $35 plus wine (cash only, please!)
to reserve: this dinner has sold out.  please join the mailing list by entering your name in the box on the sidebar to receive notice of our next dinner and enter the lottery.

we can't wait to see you?

p.s. have you heard about tartine bread???

Home Ec: The Pasta Course


Come spend an empowering afternoon learning the intricacies of fresh pasta-making with chef Samin Nosrat.

After discussing the history and science behind
pasta fresca, Samin will take you into the kitchen to demonstrate the ins and outs of making, rolling, and shaping fresh pasta. She'll cover such topics as which types of flours to use, tips for rolling smooth, even sheets, and how to best store and cook handmade pasta.

Then, it'll be your turn to work with fresh farm eggs and a variety of high-quality flours. You'll learn how to make several shapes, including rustic hand-torn straccetti, traditional tagliatelle, farfalle, and delicate ravioli.

Each student will receive a recipe guide and some pasta to take home.

You'll leave empowered and informed, knowing how to make delicate, tender sheets of pasta whenever you like.



WHAT

How to Make Fresh Pasta with Samin Nosrat

WHEN
August 1
4 pm- 7 pm


WHERE
4629 Martin Luther King Junior Way
(At the corner of 47th and MLK)
Oakland, CA 94609


TICKETS
$99
To Enroll: Visit the event page a
t Brown Paper Tickets


CLASS SIZE
20 students max.
Each student will make and take home several types of fresh pasta and a recipe guide.


ABOUT SAMIN NOSRAT
A professional cook and freelance writer, Samin Nosrat looks to tradition, culture and history for inspiration. Trained in the Chez Panisse kitchen, she cooked there for several years before moving to Italy, where she worked closely with the Tuscan butcher Dario Cecchini and chef Benedetta Vitali for nearly two years. She spent five years as the sous chef and "farmwife" at Eccolo restaurant, butchering, brining, and preserving nearly everything in an effort to make the restaurant as self-sustaining as possible. Her writing has appeared in the San Francisco Chronicle, Meatpaper, Edible San Francisco, and TheAtlantic.com, as well as on her blog, Ciao Samin.


on beauty

























pies at soul food farm. photo by bart nagel.

something amazing has been happening inside and around me over the past year. i'm not necessarily to the point where i can articulate it very well, but it's something like this: once i shed the idea that who i am is who i will always be, i started to become the person i've always wanted to and believed i could be. i had to let go of the preconceived notions of who samin is in order to be able to begin to become the person i've always wanted to be. does this make sense?

we all make mistakes, and i've made more than my fair share, mostly involving my being really hard on the people around me. but as one with type-a, ocd tendencies, i've always been harder than myself than anyone else, and that's never led to anything very good.

i've had to learn to forgive myself for my mistakes; incredibly (and unexpectedly), that's allowed me to be so much kinder to the people around me. in turn, the kindness and generosity has been returned to me ten-fold, and continues to breed abundance in the most unexpected ways. each day, new magic unfolds in my life (as melissa put it earlier tonight, "so, what amazing thing happened today? did julia child get up out of her grave to come over for dinner?"), and i've found that the best thing to do is just to roll with it, and to exude gratitude at every turn.

of course, each day i still struggle with the practice of not beating myself up for every little thing; i have to work really, really hard to see the greater successes instead of the details of failure. nitpicking has always been a favorite pastime, and i struggle at controlling it. jealousy, too. and of course, there's insecurity--well, there's always plenty of that. i don't doubt that facing these issues will be a lifetime practice for me, but even taking the first few steps down this path has been groundbreaking for me.



Home Ec: How to Pull Fresh Mozzarella



Have you been wondering what that hand-pulled mozzarella on every restaurant menu is all about? Have you noticed that it's impossibly tender, better than even the most expensive imported Italian mozzarella?

Come spend an afternoon with chef Samin Nosrat for a delicious and demystifying hands-on cheese-pulling class. Put your mozzarella-making skills in practice and get ready for the arrival of tomato season!

Samin will talk and walk you through the intricacies of pulling the perfect ball of fresh mozzarella, and then it'll be your turn! Everyone will then get to pull several balls of mozzarella (it takes a while to get a hang of it!) under her guidance. You'll even get to try your hand at making a creamy burrata mozzarella!

After we gather around the table to enjoy some of the mozzarella we pull together, each student will take home his/her mozzarella, as well as a recipe book with ideas for cooking with your fresh mozzarella, step-by-step instructions for pulling mozzarella, and a list of trusted cheese purveyors and resources.

You'll leave empowered and informed, knowing how to make delicate, tender fresh mozzarella for the perfect salad, pizza or antipasto plate.

WHAT

How to Pull Mozzarella with Samin Nosrat

WHEN
July 17
4 pm- 6:30 pm


WHERE
4629 Martin Luther King Junior Way
(At the corner of 47th and MLK)
Oakland, CA 94609


TICKETS
$75
To Enroll: Visit the event page
at Brown Paper Tickets


CLASS SIZE
18 students max.
Each student will pull and take home several balls of his/her own fresh mozzarella and a recipe guide.


ABOUT SAMIN NOSRAT
A professional cook and freelance writer, Samin Nosrat looks to tradition, culture and history for inspiration. Trained in the Chez Panisse kitchen, she cooked there for several years before moving to Italy, where she worked closely with the Tuscan butcher Dario Cecchini and chef Benedetta Vitali for nearly two years. She spent five years as the sous chef and "farmwife" at Eccolo restaurant, butchering, brining, and preserving nearly everything in an effort to make the restaurant as self-sustaining as possible. Her writing has appeared in the San Francisco Chronicle, Meatpaper, and Edible San Francisco, as well as on her blog, Ciao Samin.

Love after love

Love after love

The time will come
when, with elation,
you will greet yourself arriving
at your own door, in your own mirror,
and each will smile at the other's welcome,

and say, sit here. Eat.
You will love again the stranger who was your self.
Give wine. Give bread. Give back your heart
to itself, to the stranger who has loved you

all your life, whom you ignored
for another, who knows you by heart.
Take down the love letters from the bookshelf,

the photographs, the desperate notes,
peel your own image from the mirror.
Sit. Feast on your life.

--Derek Walcott

tartine afterhours. wednesday, june 16th




tartine afterhours.

a monthly series of family-style dinners at tartine bakery
complete with music, wine & cameraderie

the details:

who: the fab folks at tartine (and me)
what: a (mostly vegetarian) three-course family-style fixed menu
where: tartine bakery (600 guerrero st. sf, ca)
when: wednesday, june 16th at 8pm
why: to highlight the joy of good food and good company
how much: $35 plus wine (cash only, please!)
to reserve: this dinner has been sold out! depending on how the weather forecasts on monday, june 14th, we may open up some outdoor seating for this dinner. please join the mailing list by entering your name in the box on the sidebar to receive notice of our next dinner and enter the lottery.

Upcoming Home Ec Classes


Home Ec: The Chicken Course

Come spend an afternoon with Alexis Koefoed of Soul Food Farm and Chef Samin Nosrat for a hands-on butchering and cooking class.

In the first half-hour, Alexis will describe her chicken husbandry practices at Soul Food Farm, where she raises exquisite pastured chickens for some of the Bay Area's finest restaurants, including Chez Panisse, Camino, Coi and Frances. She'll talk about how she got into the chicken and egg business, as well as answer any questions you might have about backyard birds.

Next, we'll move into the kitchen where Samin will show you the ins and outs of butchering a chicken, including how to truss it for roasting. In 2008, Diablo Magazine called Samin's technique for spit-roasting chicken "masterful," and she will share with you all of her tips on roasting, spit-roasting and frying up delicious chicken every single time. You'll also receive a recipe book with tips on making stock, brodo and a few simple chicken dishes.

The class will end with some hands-on work: each student will receive a Soul Food Farm pastured chicken to break down into primal cuts under Samin's guidance. You'll leave empowered and encouraged to start buying whole chickens at the market, knowing how to economically and deliciously use every part of the bird!

WHAT
The Chicken Course: How to Butcher, Roast & Fry a Chicken with Samin Nosrat

WHERE
4629 Martin Luther King Junior Way
(At the corner of 47th and MLK)
Oakland, CA 94609

WHEN
Saturday, June 12th from 4-6.30pm

TICKETS
$99
To enroll: visit the event page at Brown Paper Tickets

CLASS SIZE
20 students max.
Each student will butcher and take home his/her chicken and a butchery and recipe guide.



Home Ec: The Rabbit Course

Rabbits are the new chicken. As one of the most sustainable meat choices available, rabbit is quickly becoming a favorite for conscientious home cooks. Come spend an afternoon with Mark and Miriam Pasternak of Devil's Gulch Ranch and Chef Samin Nosrat for a hands-on butchering and cooking class.

In the first half-hour, Mark will describe his rabbit husbandry practices at Devil's Gulch Ranch, where he raises rabbits for some of the Bay Area's finest restaurants, including Chez Panisse, Zuni Cafe, Quince Restaurant and The French Laundry.

Next, we'll move into the kitchen where Samin will show you the ins and outs of butchering a rabbit—then it'll be your turn: each student will receive a rabbit to break down into primal cuts. The class will end with a cooking demonstration of how to extract the most flavor from your rabbit, with recipes for a rich stock, kidney and liver paste, Tuscan rabbit ragu and tips on how to best season, grill and braise rabbit meat.

WHAT
A rabbit butchery and cooking class with Samin Nosrat


WHEN
Saturday, June 26
4 pm- 6:30 pm


WHERE
4629 Martin Luther King Junior Way
(At the corner of 47th and MLK)
Oakland, CA 94609


TICKETS
$99
To Enroll: Visit
the event page
at Brown Paper Tickets


CLASS SIZE
20 students max.
Each student will butcher and take home his/her rabbit and a butchery and recipe guide.


ABOUT SAMIN NOSRAT
A professional cook and freelance writer, Samin Nosrat looks to tradition, culture and history for inspiration. Trained in the Chez Panisse kitchen, she cooked there for several years before moving to Italy, where she worked closely with the Tuscan butcher Dario Cecchini and chef Benedetta Vitali for nearly two years. She spent five years as the sous chef and "farmwife" at Eccolo restaurant, butchering, brining, and preserving nearly everything in an effort to make the restaurant as self-sustaining as possible. Her writing has appeared in the San Francisco Chronicle, Meatpaper, and Edible San Francisco, as well as on her blog, Ciao Samin.



the yoga of pizza


this is charlie :: photo by the ever-talented paige green

charles hallowell is my soul-brother.

over the past eleven or so years, i have alternately wanted to strangle, kiss, punch, and lavish him with love. to know charlie is to redefine what it means to be in a love-hate relationship with someone. charlie is foul-mouthed, brilliant, sensitive, outspoken, offensive, infantile, generous, petty, arrogant, humble, mean and really effing stupid all at the same. he also has a bigger heart than practically anyone i've ever met.

what i love about him more than anything else is this: he can find the beauty in absolutely anything. above all, charlie is a lover. i find him to be exquisitely focused on beauty, in a way that few others are.

this is a gutsy, fantastic review that came out today about his new place, and i love it. i also love that he was shocked that she dared to print what he said! are you kidding me, dude?

here's my favorite part:

"It's a fucking pizza — a circle of dough with shit on top of it. But there's something beautiful about doing something over and over again," he says of the process of slinging pies day in and day out...Hallowell says it's about building a special relationship with the oven and the fire.

"If you've had a fight with your girlfriend, or you haven't been laid in awhile, or your mom's dying from cancer and you try to throw in a log — the log will roll off the fire, maybe it won't catch, or it lands on a pizza," he says. "When you're not there and you're not present, the pizza burns."

Hallowell has dedicated his life to pizza — and sometimes that freaks him out. Making pizzas may feel mundane at times, but he believes that the three most important things in life — fucking, eating, and sleeping — can all have a tendency to feel that way. So he kneads in a little extra love and hopes it comes through.

"I feed people. I fuel people. I cook with love so people can keep living. They can go home after dinner and make love to their wife and look after their children. They can wake up a happy human being."





in my dreams


clearly, i am obsessed with riverdog carrot tips,
because i can't seem to stop photographing them :: may, 2010

with each passing day, i'm able to articulate a little bit better what it is i'm doing with myself.

i know this much: more than anything, my work is to bring people together in community around food, because our food is us.

i honestly believe that as a teacher, my work is not to show people how to do things that they have never done or been able to master, but rather to water the seeds of knowledge about how to nourish themselves that were planted by their parents, grandparents, or even great-grandparents and never tended to. i know that we all know how to do these simple, beautiful tasks like turning flour and eggs into pasta, or cutting up a chicken to feed your family. this is innate human knowledge, no matter where you come from. and my job is to empower, encourage, and awaken people to use this knowledge practically and on a daily basis.

as a cook, i've been dreaming up a list of what i'd like to happen, in my dreams, each time i gather people around the table for a meal. i want there to be delicious, simple, honest food and good wine. i want good conversation to ensue and friendships to be forged. i want people to fall in love. i want to inspire art and music. and for the good china to be used, linens to be pulled down from the cabinet, candles to be lit and music to be played. i want flowers to be plucked from the yard, herbs to be picked from the planter boxes, and fresh eggs to be pulled from the hen house. and most of all, i want people to leave with the motivation to go on and create another special experience for a different group of folks, so that we can continue to spread these values and create more connection to our food and to each other in our wider communities.

yesterday, aaron shared with me this amazing interview with the poet and zen student jane hirschfield, including some of the following thoughts:
the zen way of practicing with food intersecting with restaurant work is that it is all completely about mindfulness and mindfulness in relation to whatever you are doing, whatever activity that is, particularly food.

our relationship to food and eating is a very good microcosm for our relationship to all of life in that it's got to do with appetite, and what we do with appetite. it's got to do with simply what we need, preferably several times a day in order to continue. it has to do with how we navigate our relationship to desire and whether that's going to be blunt or nuanced, generous or stingy, and the deep pleasure of the most basic food: bread, or rice, or a good egg. that is limitless.

how beautiful is that?

and could it be any more true? how we are with our food is a direct reflection of how we are in life (uh, just like how what goes on in our bodies and minds is a microcosm of what goes on in our wider communities, and even the universe. yes, i have spent the past three days engrossed in yoga and tantric philosophical study, if you can't tell).

if i have learned anything over this past year, it's that even in times of uncertainty, generosity begets abundance. when i don't worry about money and follow my heart, money comes, and plenty of it. when i give, i get back so much more. and so, all i am left with is this: giving, loving, generosity, authenticity, connection and community. this is what i want my life to be about.

purnatva

almost ready to let everyone in to tartine afterhours, may 12, 2010

in sanskrit, purnatva means something like divine fullness or completeness. i sort of understand it as something like a deep awareness at any moment that everything is just as it should be.

though i've been working more than i have ever worked before lately (something i didn't think could be possible after the crazy hours i worked at eccolo), i've also been feeling the purnatva more. my happiness seems to depend less on externalities and more on following my heart.

for me, cooking (and eating) is becoming less and less about the food. as long as the food has been raised and cooked with a certain level of care, it doesn't really matter to me what it is i'm eating or cooking. i care equally about every meal i make, and when i'm feeding others, i care about the circumstances and details of the meal--who's sitting at the table, how the table is set, the plates we use, etc.

i've been cooking long enough to know that for me, the way i cook is deeply informed by the way things have been done for hundreds, and in some cases thousands, of years. when i think about that, there's not much room left for my ego to get involved.

i had the chance to observe a bread shift at tartine with chad and his bakers lori and nate in march, and i was struck more than anything else by the lack of ego involved. they are motivated above all else by love and understanding of their craft, something so rare in the cooking world.

it was this beauty that made me want to collaborate with them. the reason i cook is to create community, to bring people together at the table to share a simple meal, conversation, each other, maybe wine and music. i want to create experiences for people whose memory will endure much longer than any flavor could linger on the tongue. it's this delightful yet grounding connection, to each other, to the earth, and to the food we eat, that i want to create for people.

the other night we had our first tartine afterhours dinner, and it was magical. all day, i was in a state of purnatva. the normally crazed samin was nowhere to be found. i don't know what happened, but i want it to happen all of the time. the amazing thing is that i think it really showed through in the food, the setting, the atmosphere and everything else about it. i wanted to help create something really special for people, and i think we managed to do it. i can't wait to do it again.


pasta-making class at soul food farm



saturday, may 29th
12 pm - 2 pm, followed by lunch



come learn how to make rustic hand torn pasta, traditional tagliatelle, farfalle, and delicate ravioli filled with spring vegetables, using soul food farm eggs. i'll discuss the ins and outs of pasta-making, including which types of flours to use, tips for rolling even, smooth pasta, and how to best store homemade pasta. each student will receive a recipe guide and some pasta to take home.

after class, we'll sit in the shade to enjoy a lunch of our pastas and a few other light dishes.


come prepared to get your hands dirty, because this will be a (very) hands-on class!

cost: $75 per person; includes lunch. soul food farm CSA members get $10 off one ticket

tartine afterhours.


chad at tartine :: photos by eric wolfinger

you may or may not have noticed my obsession with tartine bakery's bread. i know i'm not alone in thinking it's the best bread in this country, and perhaps beyond.

so when i had the amazing honor of spending a day with chad and his bakers nate and lori recently, i started to dream about finding a way to work with them to make and share the foods we love with the community.

after many frantic emails filled with exclamation points and OMGs over the past month, we are thrilled to announce:

tartine afterhours.

a monthly series of family-style dinners at tartine bakery
complete with music, wine & cameraderie

the details:

who: the fab folks at tartine (and me)
what: a (vegetarian) three-course family-style fixed menu
where: tartine bakery (600 guerrero st. sf, ca)
when: wednesday, may 12 at 8pm
why: to highlight the joy of good food and good company
how much: $28 plus wine (cash only, please!)
to reserve: we are full for this dinner. thanks so much for your interest and support! we'll be adding a second seating and perhaps some outdoor tables starting in june, so there will be twice as much room for all of our friends! thanks again!  please join the mailing list by entering your name in the box on the sidebar to receive notice of our next dinner and enter the lottery.